For a parts diagram, please click here (opens in a new window).

Begin by carefully removing both brush caps (TRA388) and motor brushes (TRA389).

Note which side and in what orientation they fit, so that you can replace them correctly.

Ensure that the router is at the top of its travel and in rack-and-pinion (winding height adjustment) mode.

Remove the spring cap carefully, keeping downward pressure whilst turning to the left sufficiently to release the bayonet fitting.

Remove the plunge spring (TRA344).

Carefully remove the snap ring (TRA325) .

Wind the motor body upwards until it separates from the plunge posts and base.

You can see the motor brushes and caps, the plunge spring and cap, the separated body and base and the plunge post snap ring.

Remove the metal "T" shaft (TRA401) downwards from the motor casing, after removing the knob (TRA372&3), spline clutch ring (TRA374), spring (TRA379) and hex washer (TRA377).

Here, the drag plate and locknut can be clearly seen, acting on the drive shoulder.

Also seen - to the immediate right of the locknut - is the locating post for the plunge depth stop spring.

It is important to note that the machine screw does not merely pass through the metal drag plate, but screws into it(*see re-assembly tips, below).

• Use the strip-down to thoroughly clean the machine. An airline is ideal, but not essential. Note that the plunge post bearings have material sealing rings (TRA367) at their base (similar to double-glazing draught-excluder). These can, on first sight, look like caked dust, but they are part of the design and are NOT to be removed.

• *When re-fitting the worm drive retaining metal drag plate, it is important not to overtighten the screw, as this will lock the worm gear. Tighten until the gear becomes stiff to turn, then slack off slightly until a free - but NOT sloppy - rotation is achieved.

• When re-fitting the locknut to the worm retention machine screw, it is again vital to ensure that the machine screw is held firmly, so that tightening the locknut does not alter the adjustment achieved above.
• When replacing the fine adjustment control do not fully tighten the screw in the centre of the black knob. This screw adjusts the torque at which the friction clutch releases. Set it to be as loose as possible consistent with proper operation of the knob. This protects the gears from damage if the router is unable to move up or down
  (Thanks to Bob Barrett for this point).

Above these is (from the left) the plunge handle shaft (TRA147), the plunge handle clutch shaft (TRA150) complete with outer spring (TRA152), the clutch shaft inner spring (TRA151), the plunge handle outer rubberised section (TRA139) and the plunge handle inner section (TRA140).

Finally, at the top (from the left): the transparent plunge handle lock-out (TRA146) and the plunge select button assembly (shown in parts immediately below).

From the left, you see the select push button (TRA141), the select button spring (TRA142), the plunge handle stator (TRA145), the plunge handle rotor (TRA144) and the select button screw (TRA143).

N.B *see further assembly tips below.

There are two sets of three holes in the inner part of the plunge handle which must be lined up as shown.

The holes still "empty" are to locate the roll pins in the micro release ring assembly.

• Although this may look a little daunting, if you work carefully and calmly, with a parts diagram alongside you, there should be no surprises.

• Lay out the parts in the exact order they came apart in and clean each one methodically, so that you can replace them correctly in order.

• *When re-assembling the select button assembly, do not overtighten the screw, as doing so will seize the selector mechanism. Back the screw off until the rotor and stator react correctly with each other. You can try this out before re-fitting to the router.

Once the E-ring is re-fitted, the router halves are ready to be re-joined.

• When re-assembling the two halves of the router, ensure that the plunge lock lever (TRA362 - right thumb toggle lever) is to its extreme left, against the stop and that as the assembly begins, the plunge depth stop spring is correctly introduced onto its locating post.

• When entering the right-hand post into its bearing, some assistance with the winding handle may be required. If there is resistance before the gears mesh, check that the plunge lock is not engaged.

• Pay particular attention to putting the brushes back correctly. They'll only fit vertically, and the contacts also fit into the "turn-key" shaped housing. The trick is to place the router on its side, hold the contact down against its spring and slide the cover cap downwards and inwards at an angle, until it clicks into position within its thread. Gently screw it in, being careful not to cross-thread it, as the threads are very fine.

• After first use, I'd recommend a double-check of the four main body screws, the plunge lock screw and the fine adjustment knob screw

I hope that this page has been of some assistance in understanding and maintaining the Triton MOF001 router. For a similar page on the TRA001 Router, see here

All pictures taken by the author with his Pentax K10D and 50mm f1.7 prime.

The procedure is the same, no matter what style or type of chuck assembly is fitted. It is carried out with the router removed from the table.

1. Disconnect power cord completely

2. Remove both carbon brushes, noting their position and orientation for later replacement

3. Note the direction of rotation shown by the arrow cast into the router base - you need to spin the router shaft counter to this arrow (i.e., anti-clockwise when viewed from above)

4. If you have an airline, or access to one, the backward spin can be achieved by pointing a jet of air at the cooling vanes - seen through the slots at the lower end of the bottom motor housing

5. If you do not have an airline, cut a length of string or fairly stout cord around 500mm (20"). Wrap this around the collet in such a way that you will be able to pull it and generate a backwards spin in the same way that you power a gyroscope. To achieve this you may need to remove the clear plastic dust shroud(s)

6. Whatever method you use to obtain the backward rotation, once the router shaft is spinning, you need to operate the spring-loaded shaft lock, with your thumb, to engage it into the spinning collet and shock it off the router shaft threads. For this to happen, the router needs to be spinning fast enough to achieve the shock, but not too fast to cause damage to the shaft lock pin. Try engaging the pin at a low speed first, increasing speed gradually until the collet spins off

7. Replacement is a reversal of the process, this time spinning the router in its operating direction (clockwise, when viewed from above). Replace the carbon brushes and dust shroud(s)

8. Once the new collet is in place, DO NOT attempt to tighten it when empty onto the router shaft with the wrench, as this will result in a locked collet. Mount a straight cutter into the new collet, then plunge it fairly rapidly into a scrap piece of hardwood to fully tighten the collet assembly.

Pictures and text ©Ray Girling, 2008 - 2026